it takes two hours to warm the place, so we light a fire in the wood burning stove and huddle in front of it to warm our hands and make our breath invisible. This is a good time for split pea soup and pancakes, which are really crepes that we eat with lingonberry jam from last year’s crop of berries. I must admit that I like this place better in summer when the windows aren’t frozen over and we can grill salmon outside and run through the forest unencumbered by our heavy boots. Still, it is picture perfect any time of the year, and when it starts to snow, I can begin to construct a fairy tale replete with ghosts and maidens and fine honey wine. #visitsweden #rockhammar #fairytale